Whirlwind Tour of Baku

Our second day in Baku was a whirlwind of activity. We started with an early morning pickup at 8 a.m., a big change from the previous day’s sleep-in until 1 p.m. 

Our first stop was a return to Highland Park (aka Upland Park in our guidebook) for a guided tour. This time, we learned more about the memorials and the eternal flame. The word “genocides” was used a few times. Our guide was certainly talking about atrocities and mass murders, but it did feel like the word genocide was being used as the result of propaganda rather than objectively. Definitely something that warrants some more reading. 

Watching an awkward conversation in a mosque

Next, we visited the Bibiheybat Mosque, where there was some confusion about the dress code. Our guide spoke to someone at the mosque as we arrived to confirm expectations. He said I needed pants but that Katy and Ella didn’t need to cover their hair. So, I threw on some stylish loaner baggy jeans over my shorts and in we went. 

However, once inside, our guide was confronted by another person. It was a bit awkward, as we weren’t sure exactly what we had done wrong, but we knew it was about us. This guy, who our guide said didn’t work for the mosque, felt differently about Katy and Ella covering their hair. The irony is they would have been happy to, had the guys at the front requested it. Regardless, the guy wandered off eventually and we were soon back outside enjoying the view.

Wait. Is the “P” in COP for Petrostate? 

We saw signs for COP 29, which Baku is hosting this fall. It seems odd that petro-states like the UAE and Azerbaijan are hosting back-to-back climate change meetings. A little disconcertingly, this article from the Guardian popped up in my news feed. It seems an academic from the London School of Economics was arrested while visiting family in Azerbaijan, seemingly for criticizing the government. 

With that in mind, it’s not hard to understand why our guide, Ali, tends to choose his words carefully when I ask any political questions. 

Rock drawings and mud volcanoes

While Ali danced around my awkward questions, we drove to Qobustan, home to ancient rock carvings and a UNESCO World Heritage site.  

After looking at the carvings, we drove to a dirt road, swapped our car for a 4×4 and took a very bumpy ride to see some mud volcanoes. We didn’t get to play in the mud like we did in Colombia, but it was still interesting to see. Sadly, I missed capturing on video a giant mud bubble bursting and spraying Katy with mud. 

We almost lost Katy to a building

We stopped for lunch at Dolma restaurant, where I tried some, you guessed it, Dolma. Not bad, but I won’t be looking for a recipe to make them at home. 

From the restaurant we made our way over to visit the Heydar Aliyev Centre. The classic car exhibit they had on was interesting, but the real highlight was the Zaha Hadid-designed building. Katy would happily have spent hours wandering around the inside and outside of the building taking photos. Of course, she planned our packed agenda so reluctantly accepted when it was time to move on. 

Umm… this rock is on fire

From the modern Heydar Aliyev Centre, we headed to the ancient Ateshgah of Baku, or Fire Temple of Baku followed by Yanar Dag (Fire Mountain). 

The temple was interesting. It was the first time we had visited one that was, at least in the beginning, Zoroastrian. 

Yanar Dag was odd, in a good way. A small section of rock is leaking natural gas, burning. I mean, it’s not good for the environment, but it’s interesting that this has occurred naturally and has been burning for thousands of years. Curious, I asked what happens when it rains and apparently it just reignites itself. 

What will they do with all that video?

There are tourists here in Azerbaijan, but there aren’t many, and few are Westerners. We’ve seen many Indians, Russians, and Chinese tourists, with the latter often in large tour groups. One thing that struck me was how much video was being shot on phones. Who’s going to watch that? Who’s going to edit it? Do they know how much time it would take to make that watchable?

It’s been a busy day and a half in Baku, and we’re all exhausted. But we’ve had a great time exploring the city. Tomorrow, we’ll make our way toward Sheki, with a few stops along the way, as we head toward Georgia.