Last day, time for a masssaaa.

It’s the last day of our trip and, as usual, it’s gone by far too quickly. We’ve packed a lot into the last two and a half weeks, but it still feels like we just left.

Our 7:00 pm flight from Krabi to Bangkok meant we had to leave for the airport around 4:00. While we considered another private hire boat tour we decided to opt for hanging out near the hotel, in part because we had to be checked out by noon.

After trying to sleep in a bit and having some breakfast we went to get massages, a.k.a. “massssaaaaaa”. The hotel had a promo that included an hour of Thai/oil massage and an additional service, e.g. a pedicure or a head and neck massage all for $10. Katy opted for the pedicure and I went for the head and neck.

Once rubbed and stretched into relaxation we dropped our bags off at the front desk and headed to the beach. Realizing that it wouldn’t take long before the sun started to get the better of us we walked down to have lunch at the last cafe on the beach, conveniently called, “The Last Cafe”. Katy even had time to pop over to see the vicious monkeys again while our order was being processed.

After lunch we split our remaining time in Ao Nang wandering the stores and lounging by the pool. The latter was a bit tricky because the people at our hotel seemed to think that it was ok to simply leave a towel on a chair by the pool all day, even if they weren’t actually around. It was so bad that people seemed to drop off towels at the pool before going to breakfast to reserve their seats for the day. This made it harder when we were trying to figure out if a towel on a chair was for someone in the pool and taken, or someone being selfish so we could move it. In the end we managed to figure it out and didn’t even get into any fights.

Ao Nang Villas.
Katy enjoying the last few minutes of pool time.

Needless to say, we were sad to see the end of the day and reluctant to leave the sun and water for the airport. In the end, common sense prevailed and we got on the shuttle to the airport.

The flight to Bangkok was uneventful and we were pleasantly surprised that our $30 per night airport hotel included a free shuttle. The hotel itself was clean, we only had to kill one bug, but other than that it was pretty much what you would expect for the price. Given that we arrived close to 10:00 pm and had to be back on the shuttle to the airport at 5:30 am, it did the job just fine.

A chance for some sleep before the marathon travel from Bangkok to Toronto begins.

Dangling from a rope on Railay Beach.

After a very relaxing first day in Ao Nang, our second day promised to be more adventurous.

Before we started the trip we had agreed to meet up with Kevin and Vanessa in Krabi. (The fact that we had already seen them in Hoi An was actually just the result of fortuitous timing as we passed through the same town.)

Railay Beach is a 10 minute longtail ride from Ao Nang and is world famous for rock climbing. We arranged to spend the afternoon climbing with Kevin and Vanessa who were staying in Railay.

They didn’t actually arrive at Railay until around noon, they were coming from another island, so Katy and I headed over early to laze about on the beach. It wasn’t quite as nice as our private patch of sand on Poda but we managed to enjoy ourselves nonetheless.

Standing on Railay Beach.

After some lunch we walked over to meet Kevin and Vanessa at King Climbers. We had booked a four hour beginner climbing trip and it turned out to be just the four of us with our two guides. Well, us and the dozen other climbers of various levels who were all climbing at the same location.

Kevin, Vanessa, Katy and me at Railay Beach

After getting set up with our gear, we walked over to see just exactly what we would be climbing. The spot they took us to could hardly have been more picturesque and I will readily admit that the first route they chose looked a little more advanced than “beginner”. After a quick rope tying and belaying lesson, we were off.

Now, Katy had never been climbing before and my only try was a decade ago indoors. Somehow doing it on real rocks makes it seem more…real. Maybe it’s the fact that there aren’t any holds designed for that purpose, or the fact that the ground isn’t padded, but I definitely experienced a little trepidation as we got started. Actually, belaying Katy made me far more nervous than climbing myself. As Kevin put it, having just been in a similar situation with Vanessa, “there is something nerve wracking about literally holding your wife’s life at the end of a rope”.

Katy climbing at Railay Beach.
Katy reaching for a hold.

If it were a couples competition, I would have to admit that Kevin and Vanessa definitely won. I take some solace in the fact that they have more experience than Katy and I. Competition aside, I can safely say that we all had a great time and left talking about doing it again at home, even if only indoors. Everyone did really well and probably climbed higher than anticipated. I definitely got higher than I expected and my forearms are not used to that kind of exercise, it still hurts a bit to type this post. If there was one thing I might be able to claim I was best at, it was descending. It seems I’m good at being lowered down like a limp rag doll.

Climbing at Railay Beach, Thailand.
I'm getting higher...

Some credit for our success definitely goes to our guide who had an excellent ability to instruct and motivate from the ground. Conveniently, he also had a peculiar hearing problem that seemed to kick in anytime someone said they felt they had done well enough and were ready to quit and come down. Oddly it cleared right up as soon as one reached the top of the chosen route.

Climbing at Railay Beach.
Believe it or not, that's what we were climbing. If you look closely you can see someone on the face.

After climbing we definitely needed to clean up, so we left Kevin and Vanessa to head to their hotel while we took a boat back to our hotel. Feeling fairly proud of ourselves, I rewarded myself with a beer on the beach and Katy and I hit the pool for the first time.

Later in the evening Kevin and Vanessa came over to Ao Nang to meet up for dinner. As you would expect from a tourist beach town, Ao Nang has lots of restaurants to choose between. The thing I noticed was the weird combinations of food styles, e.g. Swiss & Thai, or Swedish & Thai. The only explanation is that people from these countries came to Thailand and couldn’t bring themselves to leave. Eventually the money ran out so they opened restaurants with a little of their home country flavour. All that to say that when Vanessa said she felt like Indian or Thai for dinner, the obvious choice was the Indian/Thai restaurant.

It was great to be able to meet up with Vanessa and Kevin, not once but twice on this trip. I’m definitely jealous of their two month adventure and hope we can pull off something similar someday.

I can see what led all of those restaurant owners to settle down on the beach. It would be great to be able to have days like this one permanently. Unfortunately for us we only have one more day on the beach and then it’s back to cold reality.

Taking a longtail to paradise.

(I have to admit, I haven’t quite been able to keep up with these posts as we go, the more detail oriented reader may have noticed my struggles with past vs. present tense. Anyway, the last few posts will be written in transit from Bangkok to Toronto and posted as internet connection permits, likely not until we get home.)
We made it to the beach! After an early morning flight from Bangkok we arrived at our hotel on the beach in Ao Nang around 10:30 in the morning.
The only exciting part of the trip was choosing the land transfer to the hotel upon arrival. There are signs all over the Krabi airport telling you to sort your taxi out at a counter, not outside the airport. I like this, it makes me feel like it’s less likely that I’m going to get screwed. As we walked towards the counter a chorus of what sounded¬†¬†distinctly like hens clucking erupted in front of us. Krabi’s airport isn’t huge, so I wouldn’t have been totally shocked if there were birds, but it was actually the women sitting at competing taxi counters trying to get our attention. After a quick laugh, and some concentration to drown out the clucking while we read the various signs, we found a shuttle bus that cost half of what a taxi would have. I figure the mad clucking is a distraction/intimidation technique designed to try and mask the existence of the shuttle.
Our hotel Ao Nang Villa Resort was pretty nice, though it doesn’t come close to the Tara Angkor in Siem Reap. Situated on the beach it offered great views from all rooms.
Our room wasn’t ready when we arrived so we dropped our bags in the luggage room and headed out right away to get a lay of the land. Though our hotel is on a relatively quiet beach front walkway, it’s only a couple of minutes on foot into town. We quickly found a tourist information booth and, after some research and competitive shopping, booked a half day rock climbing package for the following day.
With that taken care of, we could relax for the rest of the afternoon. As a past visitor Katy took me on a tour of the beach. The beach is beautiful and is lined with a few bars and about 50,000 women saying, “you wanna massaaaa”, which translates roughly to, “excuse me, would you like a massage here on the beach”. At the end of the beach there is a monkey walkway. Just to be clear you see monkeys, you don’t walk on them. One kid ignored the giant “don’t feed the monkeys for your own safety” sign. We last saw him backing slowly into the sea as his bag of monkey treats quickly emptied.
Monkey on Ao Nang.
Don't worry. That's not the kid's finger he's eating. At least I don't think so.
After getting checked into our room we decided to take a longtail boat out to some of the islands. It was too late for a group tour so we hired a private longtail to take us to Tup and Poda islands, two of Katy’s favourites from her last visit. On Poda, a short walk along the beach meant we had a spot all to ourselves.
Hanging out on Poda island.
Our next stop was Tup island. Well, sometimes it’s an island and sometimes it’s islands. As the tide rises and falls, a sandbar joins the two twice a day. Actually, I’m not even sure, they may have separate names. While we were there, the tide was at a point where you could walk across, but the water would be up to your chest. I went out about halfway before turning around, but some diligent Germans, each with a beer in hand held above their heads, walked all the way across.
Tub Island
Crossing at Tup.
As we left Tup for the return trip to Ao Nang beach, the sunset was just getting started and a group of people were setting up for a beach barbecue. We enjoyed the sunset from our boat as our driver struggled against the waves to keep us headed in the right direction.
Sunset from Ao Nang.
As an aside, the life of a longtail driver isn’t all bad. Our driver Soleil (probably not the right spelling), would take us to the requested beach, drop anchor and then stretch out his hammock for a nap, rocking in the surf under the shade of his boat.
Parking at Poda Island.
Parking at Poda Island.
That evening we strolled along the road browsing the stores before a ladyboy convinced us to stop and have dinner at his restaurant.

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